We grew up in Krokos, and in summer the first thing we check in the morning is not the sun. It is the wind. The meltemi, the strong north wind of July and August, decides where the sea will be calm and where the waves will roll in.
The rule is simple. When the north wind blows, swim on the south and west coasts. On still days, drive north to the wild beaches. Krokos sits in the middle of the island, so every morning you can choose.
How to pick your beach each morning
- Check the wind before you leave. North wind? Head south or west. Still day? Go north.
- Know the season. The meltemi is usually strongest in July and August. June and September are often calmer.
- Pack for the wild beaches. Many have no shade, shops or sunbeds. Bring water, an umbrella and water shoes for the rocky edges.
Calm water on windy days
Agios Romanos
A curved sandy bay on the west coast, and our first choice when the meltemi blows. One side has sunbeds and the Lefko beach bar; the other is left natural. There are tavernas a few steps away.
Apigania
Just before you reach Agios Romanos, a small sign points to a footpath down to Apigania. A short walk brings you to a wild, quiet beach with very clear water. No facilities, so bring everything.
Kalyvia
A small sheltered cove below the village of Kardiani, with shallow clear water and trees for shade. Come early for a spot under them. There is a beach bar, and next door in Kardiani bay, O Ntinos serves fresh seafood by the water.
Isternia bay
Below the marble village of Isternia, a small bay protected by the hills, with sand, pebbles and sunset views. Stay for dinner at To Thalassaki, right on the beach. Book ahead in summer.
Pachia Ammos
On the south-east coast, a cove between two hills with a real sand dune. It faces south-west, so it stays calmer on windy days. No facilities and little shade.
Agios Fokas
The closest beach to Tinos town, an easy walk from the port and one of the longest on the island. It is organised, with Elia beach bar and Marathia, a seaside restaurant with creative local cooking.
Agios Sostis and Agios Ioannis Porto
A long stretch of sand and pebbles on the south coast, looking out to Delos and Mykonos. Organised and popular, with hotels and tavernas. The wind can reach parts of it, but there is usually a calm corner, and Porto has shallow water.
Bianco, near Kionia
A small sandy cove a few minutes from town, home to Bianco Beach House. Sunbeds by day, then a long lunch or dinner on the sand.
Wild beaches for still days
Kolymbithra
The most famous beach on Tinos: two sandy beaches in one bay on the north coast. The big one catches the waves and is home to Tinos Surf Lessons. The small one is more sheltered, with sunbeds. On meltemi days, come to surf or watch, not for a quiet swim.
Rochari
A long sandy beach near Panormos, looking out to the little lighthouse island of Planitis. Sunbeds and a beach bar, but very exposed to the north wind. Perfect on a still day.
Agia Thalassa
Also near Panormos: a wild beach in a rocky, almost lunar landscape. The path down is a little rough, and there are no facilities. Worth every step.
Agios Petros
Near Kardiani, a narrow sandy beach split by a large rock, with a small 16th-century chapel above it. No facilities, and it can get windy in August.
Livada
On the far north-east, at the end of a long winding road. Wind-carved rocks, white sand and waves. The wildest beach on the island, best on a calm day.
Quick guide
| Beach | Area | Best on | Facilities |
|---|---|---|---|
| Agios Romanos | West coast | Windy days | Sunbeds, beach bar, tavernas |
| Apigania | West coast | Windy days | None |
| Kalyvia | Kardiani | Windy days | Beach bar |
| Isternia bay | Isternia | Windy days | Taverna |
| Pachia Ammos | South-east | Windy days | None |
| Agios Fokas | Tinos town | Windy days | Beach bar, restaurant |
| Agios Sostis / Porto | South coast | Most days | Sunbeds, tavernas |
| Bianco | Near Kionia | Most days | Beach restaurant |
| Kolymbithra | North coast | Still days (surf when windy) | Sunbeds, surf school |
| Rochari | Panormos | Still days | Sunbeds, beach bar |
| Agia Thalassa | Panormos | Still days | None |
| Agios Petros | Kardiani | Still days | None |
| Livada | North-east | Still days | None |
Questions we often hear
Which Tinos beaches are best when it is windy? Agios Romanos, Apigania, Kalyvia, Isternia bay, Pachia Ammos and Agios Fokas.
What is the most famous beach on Tinos? Kolymbithra, on the north coast, known for its two bays and its surf.
Which beach is closest to Tinos town? Agios Fokas, an easy walk from the port.
Which beaches are best for a quiet day as a couple? Apigania, Kalyvia, Pachia Ammos and, on still days, Agios Petros and Agia Thalassa.
Do I need a car? In summer, buses from town reach popular beaches like Agios Fokas and Agios Ioannis Porto. For the wild beaches, a car makes everything easier.
Stay in the middle of it all
AESIS is a small cottage for two in Krokos, right in the heart of Tinos. Whichever way the wind blows, both coasts are within easy reach. Check your dates.
